Replacing Aluminum Frame Single Pane Windows
Posted: Monday, October 04, 2004
by johnr
How To Install Windows
In our past articles i talked about all the steps required to properly replace your old wood sash windows with energy efficient vinyl windows. I told you how to measure for the new windows. Then we discussed the removal of the wood sashes and parting bead. Finally, i told you how to install, seal, and trim the vinyl replacement windows. But, what if those old windows in your home are made of aluminum instead of wood? Is the process the same? No, it's not the same at all. So, the next few articles are going to explain the differences between replacing wood windows versus aluminum windows.
When discussing the proper frame style for replacing the wood sash windows, i explained the difference between new construction frames versus replacement frames. When replacing aluminum windows, there is another option we have to consider regarding frame style. It's called a "retrofit" frame. Let's go over each frame type. First, we have the new construction frame with the nailing fin. If you choose to go this route, you have to remove the exterior around each window opening, pull out the nails holding the aluminum window to the studs, nail in the new vinyl window, apply flashing, caulk, and re-install the exterior around each window.(I get tired just talking about it!)In addition to being a whole lot of labor, you can run into major problems trying to install the exterior product around each window opening. If your home has stucco, you have to try and match the rest of the stucco. It can be done, but not by you. Even most professional stucco guys can't get a perfect match. What if you have wood siding? Well, you can cut away 2" of the siding around each window to get to the nail fin, then you can apply 1 X 2 or 1 X 3 trim around each window. Certainly not as much work as the stucco home, but probably more work than the average homeowner cares to tackle. What if each window is surrounded by brick? Let's not even go there! You would have to remove the bricks, then re-install them all when finished.
Trust me, you don't want to replace your old aluminum windows with new construction vinyl windows. You want to use either the replacement frame like the one used to replace the wood sash windows, or something called a retrofit frame , that is popular in the west where stucco is a common exterior. Since the procedure for measuring is the same regardless of the frame style chosen, this article will discuss the proper measuring procedure, and future articles will explain the difference in the installation process for replacement versus retrofit.
If you look at the portion of the aluminum frame that goes around the window opening into your surrounding walls, you will see three separate "legs" that form two pockets. The outside leg and the center leg form the first pocket. Your screen and stationary panel will be in this pocket. The center leg and inside leg form the second pocket, and your sliding panel is in that pocket. Find the "leg" that is the widest on all four sides. When measuring the width, run your tape measure from the widest leg on the left to the widest leg on the right. This should be the narrowest measurement. Then, subtract 3/8" from that measurement. This is the width of the replacement window. Measure the height the same way. When measuring the height, measure as close to the center of the window as possible. This is especially important on windows wider than six feet, because the top wood header has a tendency to sag over time, making the center of the opening the narrowest. You don't need to deduct 3/8" from the height like you did on the width. 1/4" is fine. These are the dimensions you use when ordering your vinyl window. If you have any picture windows(windows without a vent panel), there will only be two legs and one pocket. You still measure the same way.
Next week i will discuss whether your home is a candidate for retrofit frames or replacement frames.
John Rocco has been installing
replacement windows since 1978
To learn more, visit How To Install Windows
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Top-level comments on this article: (6 total)Wrong! Three frame types: New Const., (when studs are exposed), Block frame, (retrofitted into old wood sash frame), & Flush-Fin, (retrofitted into alum/steel frame)
Wanted to replace single glazed aluminum casement with double glazed aluminum casement without taking off siding.
Do I need to cut off the rain drip edge on old aluminum windows? It sticks outfrom the exterior wood siding 1/2" in the base of the window and 1/4"on the top, the sides are flush with the siding? I was going to use a Sawsall with carbide blade, but willleave in place if not necessary?Yes, you need to cut off the lips so all four sides are flush. A reciprocating saw works fine. Angle the blade away from the house.Thanks jonh1! Never thought anyone would respond? I actually forgot I posted.
If your still online, I just wanted to double check a question and ask for a referral.
1. I'm going to take away the rain drip--smooth with exterior of house--I got that.
2. I'm going to cut the aluminum frame(inside window) flush? The header, sill,
and sides need to be flush ? Besides the extruding drip edge, my windows have a 1/2" frame left over once I remove the glass; In simpler terms, exterior, interior, and frame needs to be flush--all aluminum frame metal cut, excluding nailing fins?
One I have a smooth rectangle of wood, I can order replacement windows?
3. Do you know of a reputable replacement widow supplier? I live in CA, and
I have an inactive contractors license(wholesale discount-if possible)? I'm
not partial to any company. Would like to get energy credit. Again thanks!
You don't have to cut the old frame off, just the drip lip that sticks out past the stucco. In fact, you don't want to cut the metal away, because you want to seal the back of the retrofit fin to the face of the metal. I am a PlyGem dealer for the entire state of California. If you would like a quote, just go to my website using the link at the end of the article, and follow the d I Y Quote link. Also, if you are not sure about the proper way to install retrofit windows, I sell an instructional DVD on my site as well. If you have any questions, you can reach me at the number listed on the website.
Hi John, I live in the state of WA and would like to replace my aluminum 2 pane windows with 2 pane vinyl. The problem i have is the extierior has 2 types of siding, shingle panel and a hardy type panel which are devided by a 2x2 vertical strip on each side of the window running from top to bottom of wall on second floor, split level. The shingle panels are above and below the windows on the front of the house. What replacment windows would you suggest?Scott, you can buy a retrofit window frame with a very thin fin, then cut the fin so it actually fits between the 2 X 2 strips and the shingles, but also covers the aluminum. If you need a quote, go to my site and fill out the quote request form.
I recently purchased an old 1963 ranch style house with wide aluminum framed windows. The are around 40" wide and 20 -24" High and about 1" deep. Large fixed pane in the middle and a slider on each end. I can't see what holds them in the opening. The house has a low pitch roof with a significant overhanging eve. The house is white brick and the window seems to be help in place on the outside by butting against the brick sill. There is a small gap between the glass and the brick which is the width of the window frame. Inside I can't tell if the window is held in place by the trim, The inside of the opening seems to be trimmed out in a veneer of wood up against the window frame. I can't see any nails or screws in the aluminum frame. There is no trim around the window, except for some regular casing around the outside perimeter of the opening, but none in the opening. I'd like to replace these with wood framed casement windows with the crank out sections at each end of the fixed pane in the middle. I cannot install them on the outside like houses with siding. These have to go in from the inside and secure into the framing. There is no space outside because of the brick, except for maybe, some caulking, but no trim. I assume once I got the old aluminum window out, I'll have to build the opening up enough to clear the brick. I'm not sure how to measure the opening properly to order new windows, because of not knowing what the open is going to look like after I get the old window out. If there isn't trim holding it in then I guess I measure the open as is. If the trim is holding the window in, I feel I need to take one apart to see what the rough opening looks like. This is a lot of verbiage, and maybe there's an easier way to figure this out, but I can't afford a contractor and I really want to do this my self. I feel certain I can. Any advice on what my openings are? I'd rather not take one out until I have a window to go back in with. I see these same windows in a lot of the modern/California style ranches in the Atlanta, GA area built in the 60"s.There really is no way that I can determine the sizes that you need. If you want to send me some digital pictures, I may be able to help you determine how to measure. You can send any pics through my contact page on my website at how-to-install-windowsI'll try to get some. I guess the questions is more in the realm of what holds those type windows in? There doesn't appear to be any trim or screws or anything holding the Aluminum frames in the window opening. I can measure once I know what type of opening I'm dealing with. I hate to mess up the opening by dismantling it to figure out what I have, but I may have to do it, or wait until I can afford a contractor. I'll try to take a few pictures of the window to see if you can determine anything about it. Thank you, JoeI have sent some digital pictures. I hope they help. The bottom of the window frame is flush with the top of the exterior brick. A casement window could crank out. I can't see what holds the frame in on the outside, but it does appear the thin Jamb trim holds the frame in from the inside. I thought it sat on top of the interior opening trim, but it appears to be sitting on the rough opening and the finished trim butts to the frame holding it in place. Is that correct? If so, I should measure the rough opening for replacement windows? What type of windows do you recommend? Are you familiar with the Schour windows. I'm thinking Sliders or Casements since these are much wider than tall. Two casements with a fixed panel in the middle would be ideal, but I'm concerned about costs. Since it has a brick exterior is there a special window I need to order since there's no where for an outside flange to fit? I appreciate any help you can offer. I wish you were in Atlanta. Thanks, Joe
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